Speaking of maintenance, we preach that furniture, particularly pine, needs periodic waxing to keep the wood from looking “dry” and to retain that soft, mellow look. As I write this note in my family room, I’m staring at a pine entertainment center, coffee table and side table that haven’t been waxed in years. As I get out the can of Briwax, here’s the best way to maintain your pine furniture:
- Depending on usage, waxing every year or two is sufficient to keep case goods looking their best. Pine dining tables may require more frequent waxing depending on the look you prefer,.
- Start off with a well ventilated room – open windows and a bit of breeze makes the process more enjoyable. You may want to move smaller pieces to the garage. Briwax is strong, flammable and has a distinctive odor which diminishes over a couple of hours. Simple precautions like breathing masks and gloves are required.
- Light Brown Briwax is the correct color for what we call “mellow yellow” pine – a golden color with just a touch of brown. Tudor Brown Briwax is a bit darker with a touch of red. A lighter, more Scandinavian looking color can be achieved with Clear Briwax. Avoid Dark Brown unless you really know what you are doing. If in doubt, try a sample in an inconspicuous area of the piece.
- Briwax is a self cleaning process. In most instances, it’s not necessary to prepare the surface before re-waxing. Just dust if off and get on with it.
- Apply a moderate amount of Briwax using “extra fine” (0000) steel wool with the grain of the wood using medium pressure. The goal is to rub the wax into the wood, not smear it on the surface. Two or three light coats are preferable to a single thick coar.
- Make sure the wax is applied uniformly to the entire surface. Don’t make the mistake of “spot” waxing to remove a glass ring or stain.
- If the wax doesn’t seem to “stick” in certain spots, sand those spots lightly with #80 grit sandpaper to get a better “bite”.
Allow five to 10 minutes dry time, then buff with a clean soft cloth. Again, medium pressure with the grain is the most effective technique. Continue buffing until the surface is dry with a bit of a glow. If this process takes too long and seems tedious, you probably applied too much wax in the first place. Dry steel wool (extra fine 0000) will remove excess wax.
That’s it for this session. The next issue will contain a few simple tips for determining whether an antique is really as old as the seller would like it to be.
